A Gaysian’s Guide to the John Muir Trail

A sign in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park informing hikers that they need a permit for overnight travel on the John Muir Trail.

One of many signs along the trail that remind hikers that wilderness permits are required for overnight hikes in the Sierra Nevada.

 
 

Getting Your Permit

In order to hike the John Muir Trail, you must obtain an overnight backcountry permit. Do not attempt to hike the JMT without a permit. There are rangers who hike the trail and will stop to ask for your permit. If you are caught hiking without a permit, you will receive a fine and will be forced to leave the trail.

Due to the popularity of the JMT, securing a permit can be very difficult, especially if you are planning to start at Yosemite National Park and head southbound (SOBO) towards Mt. Whitney as this is the most popular direction for JMT hikers. According to Wikipedia, over 90% of JMT hikers hike southbound. I attempted to get a southbound permit, but was unsuccessful despite numerous lottery entries. The only option I had was to revise my plans and obtain a northbound (NOBO) permit from Cottonwood Pass., which is much easier to get.

 

Dollar Lake with Fin Dome in the distance.

 

To obtain a northbound permit, you will need to:

  1. Visit www.recreation.gov and click on the Permits link

  2. Search Inyo National Forest Wilderness Permits

    • Southbound hikers will need to search Yosemite National Park Wilderness Permits and enter the lottery to obtain a permit that begins at Yosemite and is eligible for a Donahue Pass exit (getting a permit without a Donahue Pass exit will prevent you from hiking out of Yosemite).

  3. Select a starting point

    • Most people will select Whitney Portal as their starting point, as this is the official southern terminus of the JMT. This is a very popular trailhead, and obtaining a permit requires entering a lottery. The lottery is very competitive due to the number of hikers seeking to summit Mt. Whitney. I chose Cottonwood Pass as my starting point. It is much easier to obtain a permit for this trailhead though it will add an extra 20 miles to your journey.

  4. Select Happy Isles trailhead as your end point

  5. Select your start and end dates. When selecting the end date for your permit, I recommend adding an extra week to your planned end date to account for any unforeseen circumstances that may occur on the trail. There is no “penalty” for ending the hike earlier, but you may get fined if you are on trail past the end date on your permit.

Your permit will be valid for your entire journey. You do not need to obtain separate permits for the various national forests and national parks that you will be hiking through. Your permit will also allow you to summit Mt. Whitney. Once your permit has been obtained and your hiking dates are confirmed, the fun part begins! You can start planning the logistics and details of your journey!